What most women attempt, these days (generally) is to compensate for whatever figures they have in such a way as to make them achieve, as closely as possible, the hourglass ideal. There’s nothing wrong, really, with doing this; however, it seems a pity that so few are aware of the gowns that are available from the periods when the figures they already have were in fashion. The girl who is top-heavy and narrow-hipped, like Sars of Tomato Nation fame, should look at either gowns from the 30s, or 1910; the girls with pear shapes can look at the 1950s, or 1915, or the Regency; the linear girls can look at the 1920s and 1930s (as well as some of the Regency styles); the girls who think they’re too Rubensque to find something should look at the dresses Rubens’ models were wearing, and look for, or have made, something along those lines. Women’s shapes vary tremendously, and virtually all have had their moment of being the height of fashion; I strongly urge that ladies at least consider the silhouettes from their own particular period.

I would point out that, in actual fact, the “hourglass” figure is NOT the ideal of the 2000s; no one actually is looking for hips on women, to balance out large busts! Even the tiny waist is not truly ideal, because then it makes hips look bigger. The current ideal is thin, with a broad shoulders, a big bust, a modestly indented waist, and narrow hips – the silhouette of the 1930s and 1910, and, to some extent, certain shapes of the 1940s.

I would urge the ladies, especially those who find fault or “flaws” in their figures, or who have been known to moan, “If only I had been born in—!”, to go to some of the vintage and historic clothing websites, and look, really look, at the different shapes that the dresses both make and are made for. If actual vintage clothes don’t fit you, there are dozens of sites that sell vintage patterns, and plenty of competent seamstresses who can make you gowns, not for a song, but cheaper than any fashion magazine, and exactly what you want.

WITH SLEEVES!

With a brief detour into Mutton Sleeve Mania.