Comments on: Bridal Fabrics: From Batiste to Velvet http://manolobrides.com/2009/12/28/bridal-fabrics-from-batiste-to-velvet/ Manolo Loves the Brides! Wed, 08 Feb 2012 11:59:52 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.2.1 By: La BellaDonna http://manolobrides.com/2009/12/28/bridal-fabrics-from-batiste-to-velvet/comment-page-1/#comment-425998 La BellaDonna Thu, 07 Jan 2010 14:34:07 +0000 http://manolobrides.com/?p=4016#comment-425998 I'd like to add a caution: these definitions are best thought of as POCKET definitions. Tulle can be made of cotton as well as silk and synthetics - and it will drape differently from either, in addition to costing A BUNDLE. Virtually any natural fibers can be combined either with each other OR with artificial fibers, and in virtually any weave (although certain weaves are more suited to certain fibers). I've seen hemp/silk combinations in satin weaves, not just in silk noil (usually what's meant by "raw silk"). And it's really, REALLY important to know what effect you have in mind, as the bride, because a silk velvet (generally, in fact, a rayon pile on a silk background, because a silk pile on silk background is usually PROHIBITIVELY expensive, and very hard to find) drapes totally differently from a cotton velvet, which is NOT the same thing as velveteen - even though cotton may be used to make the velveteen, too. The "silk velvets" offered in most shops are generally blends - silk base fabric, rayon pile. And it's possible, although not easy, to find a velvet weave made from wool, too. It's even possible to find wool lace. Trade names are not to be trusted. "Mikado satin" may well be a synthetic, but it's a synthetic BECAUSE it's made of synthetic fibers, not because it's a satin, which is simply a twill weave with long floats - and can therefore be made of any fiber, including wool, which is freaking lovely, especially in white. There are certain silks which are made from cocoons from which the moths have been allowed to escape and reproduce. These include spun (as opposed to reeled) silks, silk noils, and silks which are variously referred to as "peace" silks or Ahimsa. I myself don't have a problem with Bombyx Mori (producers of the domestic, and smoothest/spun silk) being harvested for their silk. They are totally domesticated and delicate creatures; they could not survive without the mulberry leaves provided for them by farmers; and adult Bombyx Mori moths <b>do not have mouths.</b> <i>They cannot eat.</i> Once a Bombyx Mori moth is fully grown, it lives solely to reproduce, then dies - leaving hungry offspring for farmers to feed. It is symbiotic: farmers provide food; Bombyx Mori, in turn, provides silk. It is a respectful relationship. It HAS to be: Bombyx Mori are so delicate, they have to be protected from loud sounds and unpleasant smells; their living areas must be clean; they must be fed properly, around the clock. Ahem. That said, keep in mind the silhouette you want, and find the fabric which has those properties. I know one bride who didn't wait for her seamstress to accompany her, and who accepted the assurances of the salesperson that the silk she liked was suitable. She wound up with ten yards of heavy, draping silk crepe, when she wanted something stiff and lightweight for a bouffant silhouette. There was NO WAY her seamstress could make the fabric do what it was not meant to do; the best she could do was suggest having a nightgown and robe made out of the crepe, leaving the bride with the expense of buying an additional ten yards of the correct fabric - this time, WITH her seamstress. I’d like to add a caution: these definitions are best thought of as POCKET definitions. Tulle can be made of cotton as well as silk and synthetics – and it will drape differently from either, in addition to costing A BUNDLE. Virtually any natural fibers can be combined either with each other OR with artificial fibers, and in virtually any weave (although certain weaves are more suited to certain fibers). I’ve seen hemp/silk combinations in satin weaves, not just in silk noil (usually what’s meant by “raw silk”). And it’s really, REALLY important to know what effect you have in mind, as the bride, because a silk velvet (generally, in fact, a rayon pile on a silk background, because a silk pile on silk background is usually PROHIBITIVELY expensive, and very hard to find) drapes totally differently from a cotton velvet, which is NOT the same thing as velveteen – even though cotton may be used to make the velveteen, too. The “silk velvets” offered in most shops are generally blends – silk base fabric, rayon pile. And it’s possible, although not easy, to find a velvet weave made from wool, too. It’s even possible to find wool lace.

Trade names are not to be trusted. “Mikado satin” may well be a synthetic, but it’s a synthetic BECAUSE it’s made of synthetic fibers, not because it’s a satin, which is simply a twill weave with long floats – and can therefore be made of any fiber, including wool, which is freaking lovely, especially in white.

There are certain silks which are made from cocoons from which the moths have been allowed to escape and reproduce. These include spun (as opposed to reeled) silks, silk noils, and silks which are variously referred to as “peace” silks or Ahimsa.

I myself don’t have a problem with Bombyx Mori (producers of the domestic, and smoothest/spun silk) being harvested for their silk. They are totally domesticated and delicate creatures; they could not survive without the mulberry leaves provided for them by farmers; and adult Bombyx Mori moths do not have mouths. They cannot eat. Once a Bombyx Mori moth is fully grown, it lives solely to reproduce, then dies – leaving hungry offspring for farmers to feed. It is symbiotic: farmers provide food; Bombyx Mori, in turn, provides silk. It is a respectful relationship. It HAS to be: Bombyx Mori are so delicate, they have to be protected from loud sounds and unpleasant smells; their living areas must be clean; they must be fed properly, around the clock.

Ahem. That said, keep in mind the silhouette you want, and find the fabric which has those properties. I know one bride who didn’t wait for her seamstress to accompany her, and who accepted the assurances of the salesperson that the silk she liked was suitable. She wound up with ten yards of heavy, draping silk crepe, when she wanted something stiff and lightweight for a bouffant silhouette. There was NO WAY her seamstress could make the fabric do what it was not meant to do; the best she could do was suggest having a nightgown and robe made out of the crepe, leaving the bride with the expense of buying an additional ten yards of the correct fabric – this time, WITH her seamstress.

]]> By: Heidi Aphrodite http://manolobrides.com/2009/12/28/bridal-fabrics-from-batiste-to-velvet/comment-page-1/#comment-424510 Heidi Aphrodite Mon, 28 Dec 2009 15:59:38 +0000 http://manolobrides.com/?p=4016#comment-424510 When I was working bridal, it always killed me when brides would say "I want something silk" and then hate the silk gowns we'd show them. Thanks for posting this guide! It's invaluable to know exactly what you're talking about--and sometimes, you know more than the so-called bridal consultants. ;) When I was working bridal, it always killed me when brides would say “I want something silk” and then hate the silk gowns we’d show them. Thanks for posting this guide! It’s invaluable to know exactly what you’re talking about–and sometimes, you know more than the so-called bridal consultants. ;)

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